The use of tapestries in the rambling castles and estates of Europe during the middle ages (500 to 1500 A.D.) was common fashion among nobles. Hanging tapestries on walls helped block the cold and damp of the ancient structures and create a cozy atmosphere. Among nobles, these tapestries were marks of their rank and wealth. Nobles often removed the tapestries from their walls, rolled them up and took them along as they traveled. Since these tapestries were symbols of wealth and power, they often changed hands during battles as the spoils of war.
Biblical images were a common theme of tapestries. In the 13th and 14th centuries, the church began to use tapestries to provide visual representations of bible stories to its illiterate members, for the common man was not taught to read. One of the oldest remaining example is the Apocalypse of St. John, a set of six hangings made in Paris from 1375-1379. In 1515 the Pope commissioned Raphael to design a series of tapestries that would depict the Acts of the Apostles. These became known as the Sistine Chapel Tapestries.
In early examples of tapestery works, the figures were most often solitary or in compact groupings. Backgrounds were predominantly plain or dusted with flowers and plants. These were called "mille fleurs" (thousand flowers) tapestries. Dyes for the weaving floss were most often made from plants; madders or poppies created red dyes. Blue dyes were derived from the leaves of the woad plant (Isatis tinctoria). A famous example of one of these works of art, "Lady with the Unicorn" was crafted in the Loire valley in the 15th century. In the 1500s, hunting and combat scenes were the most popular.
Weavers were hired to make tapestries marking military victories. One of the most famous of these is the Bayuex Tapestry, which depicts William's victory over Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066 A.D. The original tapestry is displayed in Normandy, France. In a later example of military tapestries, the Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V, hired a painter to accompany him into battle in approximately 1522 so that he might sketch events for later weavings.
The most famous makers of tapestries came from one region in particular: the northern part of France and Flanders, which is now the Flemish part of Belgium. The first factory, Les Gobelins factory, was established in 1660 in Paris. This business employed 800 artisans, including Flemish weavers who had to complete a 12-year apprenticeship to do their work. This factory produced a range of color of 14,000 tones by the late 1800s. However, much of the originality in works was lost as most of the pieces then made were reproductions, not original works.